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Introduction to our Rhodian Trip
The summers often pass by quite quickly in Berlin. Luckily, if timed well, you can extend those summer days using the generous amount of vacation days that Germany offers. The way I chose to extend my summer this year, was to Rhodes, Greece. A quick 3-hour, direct flight and you can find yourself enjoying beautiful beaches and, in my experience, a 15+ degree increase in temperature. The island is situated in an interesting location, closer to the mainland of Turkey than that of Greece. It's also surrounded by other beautiful and unique islands that can be easily reached, via ferry. The inbound flight was quite spectacular on such a crystal-clear afternoon and provided us with a preview of what was to come.
Landing on Rhodes
Flying into Rhodes you notice countless Greek Islands and the Turkish coastline coming into focus. After descending to a lower altitude, it seemed as if we would be landing on the water itself but fortunately, they had built a runway along the coast and it gave us an opportunity to watch the kiteboarders take advantage of the favorable, afternoon winds right next to the airport. Our departure from Berlin had been in the rain with temperatures around 16 degrees Celsius, so the 35 degree weather with palm trees swaying in the afternoon breeze was incredibly welcoming, to say the least. Following the typical chaos and impatient passengers trying to disembark, we were embraced by the warm, Mediterranean climate and the excitement finally took hold! The bus ride to Rhodes city was packed but took a mere 30 minutes to lay eyes on the incredible and historic city. We checked into our hotel and got freshened up for our first dinner, which I was eagerly awaiting. I had been looking forward to a nice seafood plate with a glass of wine to kick things off. I chose the octopus in red wine sauce with a mash of fava beans, as I hadn't eaten octopus in years and I knew Greece was the place to do it! It was a massive, whole octopus, cooked perfectly and it hit the spot, exactly as I had hoped. After an eventful day, it was time for a good night's sleep.
Transportation around Rhodes
Typically, I am completely satisfied with the local bus to get from point a to b but this time, we opted for a rental car. In the midst of Covid-19, with limited time ahead of us, this seemed like the best option. We found a perfectly hideous van to do the trick, as most of the companies were sold out and the options were limited. Off to Pefkos! The town we chose was an hour drive to the south, just past the more famous Lindos; a narrow, tight city with a massive fortress sitting atop a hill, jutting out into the sea. It was a great choice as Lindos ended up being far too crowded and hectic; Pefkos on the other hand was calm and beautiful, with plenty restaurants and a gorgeous beach. We ended up using the car to take a couple of day trips to nearby beaches and to, of course, return to Rhodes city a couple days before departing. I believe a car (or scooter if you can handle the direct sun) is a great mode of transportation on the island, just be sure to book early to avoid old cars and high prices. They do have buses but I believe it would be somewhat challenging to plan in the more remote parts of the island. Drop-off areas may be far from the beach so it may necessitate some more walking. You may also have to combine it with taxis depending on your luggage and distance. The freedom of a car is always unmatched. You can go where you want, when you want, and you also have a great place to store some extra clothes, food or whatever else you don't want to carry while you enjoy your time at the beach or wandering through a new town.
Best Beaches on Rhodes
Why choose? I think if you have the freedom to go by car, go explore a bit. We went to a few different beaches or swimming holes and each was unique and nice in it's own right. Some had sandy beaches, such as Pefkos and Tsambiko, and others were more rocky, clear, and maybe had some nice restaurants nearby. Some examples of these would include Grande Blue near Stegna or the Paralia Agios Pavlos, near Lindos. On Pefkos, our local beach, we ended up spending a couple of days lounging on the sand with service from the nearby restaurant. It was a perfect way to relax and unwind in a comfortable, shaded lounge chair. We spent the day frequently dipping into the water, while enjoying food and drink brought to us from an incredibly nice staff. If you are feeling a bit more restless or adventurous, there is a super friendly and affordable rental company with SUP boards, kayaks, boats and more, all at your fingertips. I took a nice SUP tour around the bay and along the coast and was rewarded with incredible views of the blue and turquoise water with the backdrop of steep, rocky mountains surrounding the small town of Pefkos.
Tsambiko was a lot more crowded and a bit more hectic. The People working there could be a bit relentless with their lounge-chair offers. It was difficult to take a walk without someone trying to sell you something. That being said, we ended up at a great location with a less pushy individual and had a great day of swimming and reading. They have tons of activities on this beach so any watersports you can imagine, they likely have you covered here. The view is quite spectacular, as you are surrounded by massive rocky mountains that tower over the beach on either side. We also made a stop at another location, called Grande Blue for one of the best views we had while eating during our trip. The setting is around 100 meters up, overlooking a crystal-clear, rocky bay and the Terrace is wide open, providing an unobstructed view of the bay.
Greek Food
While the various baked goods, cheese, meats, liquors and coffee are all amazing in Greece, it can wreak havoc on your digestive system if you aren't used to it. That's why this time, I decided to stick more to fish and salads, which are also great options in Greek cuisine and it did not at all disappoint! My absolute best meal was not only tasty but it looked stunning and the backdrop would be difficult to beat. I ordered their seabass which was filleted and divided into four parts. Each fillet was separated and propped up by an amazingly fresh, flavorful, spinach rice with a strong citrus flavor. It was then surrounded by a brilliantly pink, beet purée. All of the colors, flavors and textures were matched perfectly and I haven't even gotten to the view. We were sitting in a restaurant on the edge off our local beach which we had all to ourselves, as we were the first ones to show up for the evening. We chose a nice, shady seat, in an open, breezy terrace, overlooking the beach with sunset starting to take shape.
Island hopping on Rhodes
What would a trip to Greece be, without experiencing the maritime lifestyle? The term "Archipelago", meaning a chain of islands, has it's origin in the Aegean sea. The original meaning is from Archi, meaning chief and Pelagos, meaning sea. So, the "chief sea" has a lot to offer when it comes to islands. We didn't have much time while on Rhodes but decided it was crucial to see another nearby island called Symi.
This island is everything you may fantasize about when thinking of the romantic Mediterranean. We took an hour-long ferry ride along the Turkish coast to enter a natural harbor surrounded by rocky cliffs, filled with vibrantly colored homes, pointing you towards a gorgeous port town. The colors all work very well together since they have a similar quality but the variation of the types of colors is incredibly vast. The smells of grilled fish were ubiquitous as soon as we disembarked and started our stroll along the harbor. We were told this is a great location for fresh fish and judging by the numerous restaurants' aromas, I'm sure this is true. We only had around 5 hours and the meal we chose was maybe not ideal given the options but we still had an amazing trip walking around and swimming in the clear abyss of a swimming area. Due to the steep mountains towering out of the water, the depths also dropped off quite dramatically. It made for a very beautiful and refreshing dip in the sea, very unique from what we had seen with the relatively shallow waters of Rhodes.
Travel Terminology
Generous - To give or be offered more than expected
Descending - The act of going down in elevation
Disembark - To leave or get off a transportation vehicle
Embraced - When something or someone grabs you or surrounds you. Often used to mean hug
Kick things off - To begin something in a meaningful, or eventful way
Satisfied - A state of being content or happy with what has occurred
Fortress - A a large military structure that is used to protect from an attack
Jutting out - When something is sticking out or extending beyond or into something.
Unmatched - When something cannot be compared to; has no equal
Unwind - Relax or let loose from a more stressed state (wound up)
Restless - To get nervous or anxious from not being active. The need to move or act.
At your fingertips - easily accessible; ready to be used
Backdrop - The scene or image behind the foreground or immediate view.
Hectic - When many things are going on, typically in a stressful manner
Relentless - When something or someone wont stop.
Unobstructed - Nothing is in the way or blocking a path or view.
Wreak havoc - To do a lot of damage or create chaos
Maritime - having to do with or relating to the sea and seafaring
Abyss - incredibly deep or seemingly endless chasm
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